Any round brilliant with good symmetry will show a pattern of eight hearts and eight arrows. Only when the cut proportions fall within a specific range, however, is the pattern exact enough for the stone to be called a “hearts and arrows” (H&A) diamond. An Excellent cut is a different measure: it requires symmetry, proportions and polish all to be graded Excellent, for a 3EX grade. Hearts and arrows, then, does not mean an Excellent cut.
Hearts and arrows and the 4Cs
Hearts and arrows describes only one aspect of how a cut performs optically; judging a diamond's quality still takes all four Cs. A diamond with the hearts-and-arrows effect but a milky or brownish color is still a lower-quality diamond. Likewise, fancy shapes cannot be judged by hearts and arrows, and an Excellent-cut diamond whose proportions fall outside the hearts-and-arrows range is no lower in quality for it.
Do you need hearts and arrows?
Hearts and arrows is one sign of a high-quality diamond, but there is no need to insist on it: a diamond is of good quality when all of its 4Cs are high. If you love the effect and what it symbolizes, simply check that the diamond's report notes it.
